Nashville and Memphis, Tennessee, USA .
This was my trip of a lifetime . I went to visit Graceland .
I'd wanted to do this from as far back as schooldays and it was awesome !
I flew into Atlanta , Georgia for the beginning of my trip .
Walked along Peachtree Road and saw CNN News and the old Coca Cola HQ .
Found a great shopping area called Atlanta underground and had a burger
at Johnny Rockets.
Next day I picked up my rental car ,
a white Chrysler Sebring .
Headed thru Atlanta (8 lanes) , drove up
to South Carolina - took a scenic route.
This was Table Rock National Park.
Next day drove thru the Great Smoky
Mountain National Park to Pigeon Forge .
Then on to North Carolina aiming for
Tennessee.
With the Appalachian mountains for
company I arrived in Gatlinburg Tennessee
and ate at the Hard Rock Cafe .
Then I made my way to Chattanooga which is lovely and found the Choo Choo and Track 29 .
The old station is now a Holiday Inn .
After Chattanooga I went to Lynchburg
Tennesse, the home of Jack Daniels
whisky.
Did the distillery tour, here with my
guide David.
He was fun and the tour was fantastic.
Next day, Saturday, I drove into Nashville ,
Music City.
My first visit was to the Country Music
Hall Of Fame and Museum ,
3 floors explaining the story and
history of Country Music , from early
beginnings , to present day .
Part of Chet Atkins' personal guitar
collection on display , which also
includes his Standell Amplifier
of which only 50 were ever made .
My entrance ticket also included
The Ryman Auditorium , the
"Mother Church of Country Music"
and also
the original home of the Grand Ol' Opry .
Inside The Ryman Auditorium , and
the original stage where, in 1945,
Bluegrass was born.
Studio B RCA Victor Studios celebrating 50 yrs , 1957 - 2007.
The home of 1000 No1 hit songs .
Elvis recorded over half of his entire workload in
this studio .
Also associated with RCA were Chet Atkins ,
The Everly Brothers, Dolly Parton Roy Orbison ,
Jim Reeves , the list of major names is endless .
It was amazing to stand in the studio and look
around and gaze on the Steinway Grand Piano
where Elvis would hold impromptu Gospel song
sessions with the various musicians and
The Jordanairres , and others , until way past
the early hours .
Found my way out to Opryland, about
8 miles from centre of Nashville.
Checked into the Fiddler's Inn Motel .
A very kind lady at the reception of
The Fiddler's Inn got me in that night to the
GRAND OL' OPRY, there was a spare seat 12
rows from the front - WOW!!
VINCE GILL live on stage .
THE OAKRIDGE BOYS on stage live .
Also watched MARTY STUART and
special guest JAMES BURTON and
loads more acts .
Fantastic !
View of the new stage at
The Grand Ol' Opry House after the
show when the lights came up .
The Grand Ol' Opry House, Opryland ,
Nashville , Tennessee .
Cruised around Music Row , which includes
The Orbison Building , houseing the offices of
Roy Orbison's musical empire .
Then hit the bars on Broadway !
Acoustic sessions till dark then electric
takes over.
Bars included TOOTSIE'S LEGENDS and
my favourite THE SECOND FIDDLE , here
picturing one of the many house bands
featured on stage there .
Sunday went exploring . Went up to Bowling Green ,Kentucky .
On the way stopped in Hendersonville to visit Hickory Lake and the house of
Johnny Cash .
Sadly it had been burned to the ground, some renovation accident.
Owned by Barry Gibb, bet he was devastated !!
Returned to Nashville, went out to BELLE MEAD , an old plantation house famous
for the breeding of many top racehorses .
On my last day , I visited The Gibson
Guitar Showcase Centre in Opryland .
The Centre displays the largest collection
of handmade Gibson musical intruments
on sale anywhere in the world , and also
includes a theatre where visiting
musicians hold masterclasses and
give concerts .
Back into town and went to the Musicians
Hall Of Fame and Museum .
It's all about the instruments that were
played by the session musicians on all
the hit records out of Nashville in the last
40 yrs , a good many of which were
recorded at RCA Victor Sound Studios
on Music Row .
The next day was a beautiful day so I walked around town . Visited the Willie Nelson Museum ,
and the Charlie Daniels Shop and Museum .
The Earnest Tubb Record Store on
Broadway , where years ago , from a
stage at the back of the store ,
they used to broadcast live
Country and Western on a Saturday night
after the Grand Ol' Opry at The Ryman ,
had closed for the night .
Walked up onto The Shelby St pedestrian footbridge over the Cumberland River ,
then had a late lunch in The Hard Rock Cafe , the best one I've been in .
You can just see The Hard Rock Cafe behind my left shoulder .
Did the bars again on Broadway 'til late.
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On the Tuesday morning I am leaving Nashville with some sadness, heading down the
I 40 " Music Highway "
to Memhpis , Tennessee , and to the birthplace of Rock n Roll and also The Blues.
On my way I stopped off at Jackson and took
in some railroad history at the museum of
Casey Jones ,
the famous railroad engineer .
The original house where Casey Jones
lived with his family .
This is not the original site because the
house was painstakingly moved and
reassembled here on this site for public
viewing .
I also drove round Jackson , which was
the birthplace of the legendary
Carl Perkins , who wrote and recorded the
original version of "Blue Suede Shoes"
I arrived in Memphis and headed for
GRACELAND 3764 , on Highway 51 South .
Then I saw it for the first time oh , Wow!!!!!!.
The Elvis Presley Memorial Plaque at the
entrance to Graceland .
Just across the road is Heartbreak Hotel ,
down the bottom of Lonely St .
I checked in for 3 nights and bought my
entire
Memphis package , it was a great deal .
That night used the hotel shuttle service to
go into Memphis and Beale Street.
Its so vibrant and exiting down there .
Spent my first evening in B.B. King's Blues
Club.
The house band were awesome.
Had a beer and some catfish and caught the
last shuttle bus back to Heartbreak Hotel .
Wednesday ,and I was driving into
GRACELAND in one of these buses and up
to the front of the house.
I had upgraded my pass to Elvis V.I.P. and it
was well worth it and meant I could stay
there all day and come and go as I please.
I could also walk in and around the house
and gardens at leisure and didnt have to just
go thru and out again .
The front of the house is so beautiful . I took lots of pics from all angles .
I never thought the day would come when I would be either sitting or standing on Elvis'
front steps into Graceland !!
When I went inside the house it was lovelier than I had imagined. The main thing I felt
was that it was still a home . I am sure he knows when musicians come calling.
The lounge area in Graceland with the
Music Room just visible through the
archway .
Note the 10 foot long coffee table and the
15 foot long settee !
Elvis used to change the drapes from dark
blue to red ones every Christmas .
Elvis' dining room in Graceland . He always
sat in the same chair at the head of the table ,
facing towards the Music Room .
The kitchen in Graceland .
Just imagine Elvis sitting on that stool
watching his cook Pauline preparing his
favourite food .
The "Jungle Room" .
Elvis loved furnishing this room over a
period of time and the room also included a
waterfall .
The Pool Room
Elvis’ bar area and TV room
The "Trophy Room" .
There are 2 corridors full of Elvis' Gold and
Platinum hit records , also featuring his gold
lame stage suit and his black leather
'68 " Comeback Special" stage suit .
The Squash Court is full of various
catsuit stage costumes , and awards for
films and other events fill the walls .
Shown on the left in this picture is the
Eagle suit and cape from the 1973
"Aloha Concert" from Hawaii .
Also in this room is the Aztec suit , the
last suit Elvis wore in his final weeks .
Moved on to the Meditation Garden , where Elvis is buried , along with his
Mother , Father and Grandmother .
The gardens at Graceland are beautifully kept and the entire grounds cover 14 acres .
It's really beautiful and adorned with flowers and bouquets which arrive daily from
all over the world .
Note Elvis' grave with "The Eternal Flame" at the head of it ,
a gift from his closest friends .
The middle picture shows the Memorial headstone which originally stood
at his Mother's grave .
It was a really quiet day and I could move around easily with not many people and no queues .
I think I struck lucky !
I left at the end of the day at 5:30pm , in fact , the last one to leave .
The Stutz Blackhawk , Elvis' very last car ,
housed in the Car Museum , along with many
other top of the range motor cars and Harley
Davidson motorbikes .
Elvis' first car , bought for his Mother ,
the classic 1956 Pink Cadillac .
Elvis loved anything on wheels ,
even golf carts !
Quite by chance , while browsing the car
museum , I bumped into James Burton ,
Elvis' guitar player for 7 years during the
Vegas period , and his wife Louise , got
autographs and some great pics .
We talked guitars and all about his days
with Elvis .
Past various shops and onto the
airplanes, Houndog 2 and The Lisa Marie .
Elvis called it his flying Graceland ,
complete with showers ,dining and
lounge area and double bedroom.
I spent the evening winding down in Heartbreak Hotel , with Elvis on the big screen ,
some food and a couple of beers .
Truly an unforgettable day !!
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Thursday caught the 9pm shuttle from Heartbreak Hotel to downtown Memphis .
First stop was SUN STUDIOS , 706 Union
Avenue . There is a guided tour which is very
good , but to
stand in the studio itself and to almost place
your feet where Rock n Roll was born is spine
tingling .
The first ever sounds from Elvis , Carl Perkins ,
Johnny Cash , Jerry Lee Lewis and
Roy Orbison .
It's not very big or grand, but that's it , that's
where it all started
Then back onto the shuttle bus and a few minutes later into Memphis .
Just off Beale Street is the Rock 'n' Soul Museum .
Very informative on all aspects and it doesn't disappoint . Well that took care of the
next 2 - 3 hours !
On finishing that, the Gibson Guitar Factory is just across the road and the tour
again is superb .
You almost see each stage of making the guitars from body and neck shaping,
glueing, spraying, fitting electrics, testing etc .
Just imagine the guitar testers go into work each day and play guitar all day
long and get paid for it !
Had some lunch in Beale Street, and went to the Peabody Hotel , the finest hotel
in Memphis .
That night I went back down to
Beale Street and took in live Blues in
WC Handy park .
This is the street where the Blues was born .
These guys play for hours and for tips ,
great just to sit and listen .
In with my Memphis package was a meal at the Memphis Hard Rock Cafe , just
across the street .
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Friday I am moving to a motel in downtown Memphis .
After checking in I'm making my way to
926 McLemore Avenue, the home of
Memphis Soul
" STAX ".
Having been a lifelong fan of
Otis Redding ,
I just couldn't wait to get there .
The Stax studio has a great history with the
likes of Booker T & The MG's , Rufus and
Carla Thomas , Sam And Dave ,
The BarKays and Isaac Hayes ,
The Staple Singers , Ike And Tina Turner ,
Aretha Franklin , Al Green ,
The Memphis Horns
and more , all recorded on this label .
The original instruments on classic
Soul hits like
" Time is Tight "and "Green Onions "
are preserved and sealed in perspex cases
in the main recording studio .
This was the first recording studio I have
ever been in to have a sloping floor , as
previously it had been a cinema .
I found it so hard to leave !
Just around the corner is Mulberry Street, and the Lorraine Motel , plus
The National Civil Rights Museum , scene of the assasination of
Dr Martin Luther King .
I went into the museum and it told the story of the beginnings of slavery to the
civil rights movement , it was all very moving .
In the right hand picture below you can see the wreath at the spot where
Dr Martin Luther King was shot , from a window in a house opposite .
Later I went back to Sun Studios and found it empty so I went to the shop and got
some merchandise and had a coke .
I am now only a mile from Beale Street and that night ate at Dyers .
They deep fry their burgers , bun and all , with fries , in a large cooking pot of
boiling hot , seasoned fat .
It's very greasy but very tasty .
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Saturday I went back up to Graceland for a last look round .
I would have gone in again but it was very Disney !! . Huge crowds and party hats .
Not my kind of thing .
I didnt want to spoil my precious quiet memories of the previous Wednesday .
I did some shops then drove back down to Memphis and had a walk round .
Looked at the trams on Main Street and River Front . I caught the monorail out to
Mud Island , right on the Mississippi River, museum shops and more info .
My last night in Memphis it had to be Beale Street and BB Kings Blues Club .
The picture on the left shows Beale Street , such an exciting street , and the
picture on the right shows 2nd Avenue , with Beale Street crossing it .
--------------------------------------------
Sunday I am leaving Memphis .
I went across the Mississippi Bridge into Arkansas for breakfast , then back into
Memphis for an
unforgetable Gospel service at The Temple Of Deliverance .
I had always wanted to witness live Gospel
singing at first hand , complete with band and a wonderful choir .
One more look at Sun Studios , and a drive
down Union Avenue , then I am leaving
Memphis ,heading for Tupelo , Mississippi ,
the birthplace of Elvis Presley .
Sunday afternoon I arrived in Tupelo , Mississippi ,and spent a lovely couple of hours
or so visiting the birthplace of Elvis Aaron Presley .
It is of course a humble little two room shack built mostly from wood .
The birthplace is well laid out with nice gardens, a statue of Elvis at 13 , a chapel , and
of course, a gift shop.
In the gardens themselves there are plaques on the walls with various stories from
the people who knew him first ,ie, his school teacher, and an Uncle who was
also a preacher.
Also a man named Guy Harris. They grew up together and the friendship lasted
all their lives .
Tupelo was a welcome break from the hustle of Memphis . I had a nice meal that
evening and a good night's rest in a nice motel .
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Monday I am heading for Huntsville Alabama, when I drive into a town called
Tuscumbia , and just there on the right hand side I see
"The Alabama Music Hall Of Fame " !!
Well I couldnt believe it !
I had made plans for my trip , but I really hadn't planned for this !!
The history of Alabama music is
sensational .
So many well known stars , Hank Williams,
Nat King Cole , Sam Phillips , Lionel Richie ,
The Commodores , The Temptations ,
Emmy Lou Harris , Dr Hook , and the list
goes on .
Unlike any where else I had been , cameras
and video were allowed !
Wow , a nice change !
As I left Tuscumbia ( named after a Red Indian chief ) I drove to the next town of
Muscle Shoals where they have an extensive area of recording studios .
I visited Fame Studios , where
Wilson Pickett,
Percy Sledge, Eddie Floyd and
Authur Conley, had all recorded .
I then went to Muscle Shoals Sound
Studios , at 3614 , Jackson Highway,
where The Rolling Stones, Paul Simon ,
Rod Stewart , Millie Jackson and loads
more have all recorded .
Not forgetting the famous
Muscle Shoals Horns .
That night stayed in a Super 8 right beside I85 at Huntsville and ate at Ruby Tuesdays
next door .
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Tuesday I'm off towards Birmingham and Montgomery , Alabama . I didnt stop at
Birmingham and so headed for Montgomery instead .
I wanted to find the grave of
Hank Williams
and after a little while found
the cemetery .
I got directions to the gravesite although
it is so resplendent I think I would have
found it anyway .
After, I went into the centre of Montgomery. I was really impressed .
The State Capitol Building was huge, and the downtown area was very nice .
I noticed museums and an area of the oldest buildings in the town which were
obviously being well preserved .
Later that afternoon I drove up toward Atlanta . I had to be at the airport next day for
12 midday .
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Wednesday , my last day ! On leaving my motel I heard people talking of Jonesboro .
As I was driving to the airport I saw a sign for Jonesboro in Clay County, just south of
Atlanta . A quick stop off and found myself in " Gone With The Wind " country .
Jonesboro is a little town with a museum in the old Railway station .
I had of course most of my trip been travelling "through the cradle of the American
Civil War " and I was told that one of the worst battles was fought here at Jonesboro ,
on the railway tracks .
On the right side of the picture below , you can see the local doctor's house that was
transformed into a field hospital for the wounded soldiers during that epic battle .
I picked up a few bits of info , but I had gone to see and feel the roots and birthplace
of American Rock 'n' Roll , The Blues and Country Music, and "Oh Boy" did I !!!!
Sadly , after handing in my Chrysler Sebring , this time I headed for my plane home .
What a trip !!!!!